FOUND OBJECT

Polaroid Camera

Architecture Photography 

Personal Interest

          I decided to choose Instax mini Polaroid camera as my found object as the camera usage in Architecture dated way back to 1385, the first architectural photograph View from the window at Le Gras was taken by Nicephore Niepace. Buildings have been highly valued photographic subjects, mirroring society's appreciation for architecture and its cultural significance throughout decades. Architectural photography usually utilized as an established visual medium. As an architecture student, we usually refer the photographs of Iconic buildings to study history of architecture and I love taking photographs because they always remind me of good memories in my life that I can never go back.

           But in these digital era, someone might ask 'Why Polaroid and not digital camera?'. One big benefit of instant film cameras is the instant gratification that they provide those who use digital have the ability to see their pictures right after snapping them yet they still have to go somewhere, upload, and print in order to get a tangible, hard copy of their image. With instant film the process is far simpler, just snap and waits for the print to shoot out the side, where it will magically develop within just a few minutes. The images produced by instant camera film are different from those produced by digital cameras. They have their own fuzzy, retro look, and a white surrounding block that safely encompasses the image like a frame.

          Pictures produced through instant film have a unique look that can never be totally duplicated, as hard as online digital photo-editing applications may try. Using an instant film camera while travelling is a great way to capture fun, candid shots, and can give away the photos as a souvenir to new friends you meet during the trip. The photos from instant camera have a one-of-a-kind quality that cannot be replicate. Polaroid-style pictures make great additions to scrapbooks. They present a small white patch at the foot of the image that is perfect for adding the date, time, or subject's name. They also look funky and retro, against digital and conventional prints. Taking good instant photos requires talent and a sharp eye. There are no do-overs or edits. It is a unique hobby that will certainly set you apart from your digital point-and-shoot companions. Even the nicest, most-advanced digital camera cannot rival the looks of interest and admiration that follow a person cool enough to whip out a trendy new Fuji Instax and start snapping away. 

Digital Making- 123D Catch( Photogrammetry) & Meshmixer

          To be able to generate 3D model from photograph for my object, I downloaded 123D catch software(3D scanner) from app-store to my i-phone.  

          For a clean and better result of the 3D model, I scribbled with different color sharpie marker on my camera to make it easier for the app to focus on various angles of the object because objects with plain, reflective, transparent surfaces will not work on 123D catch. The object must remain still when taking the photographs.

          Started shooting a loop of approximately 20 sequential photographs in small increments about my object and took another loop from a different angle for better result . The app actually guided me through to get the different angles with highlighted segments and helped me navigate during the process.

         

          I tried to frame and focus on the whole object as I was shooting and upload the photos to the cloud to create and save 3D model of the object.

3D model of the object generated by 123D catch

                   Downloaded Meshmixer software to my computer and open .stl file of the object from 123D catch. To clean up the excess 3D environment capture from 123D catch, lasso and paint select tool are used and ready to import the model to 123D make. 

Final 3D model in Meshmixer after clean up the excess surfaces

Digital Making- 123D Make

          123D Make free software is downloaded to the computer to turn my 3D model into 2D build plans for laser cut to build form-work and assisted with animated assembly instructions. Uploaded 3D model to 123D make as (.obj) file from Meshmixer app.

3D model in 123D Make

          The panel on the left side in 123D make, there is the manufacturing settings which allow me to change the size and scale of the object, the sheet properties, and the selected construction technique. The gear button beside 'Manufacturing Settings’ allow me to set the sheet properties depending on the dimensions, type, and thickness of the material. After specifying the properties, the app indicated the number of sheets and templates for me according to the construction technique that I choose. Click 'Select Technique' button and explore various construction methods suitable for my object to create templates:

Stacked slices

          I decided to use horizontal stacked slices because of clear defined curves and indents shown and simple construction to make a mold of my object. I also want my form-work to be structurally stable and able to resist stress from hammering on when creating the metal skin later on. I needed to use 4 sheets of 3mm plywood 600*300 to build the form-work. 

Interlocked Slices

          Interlocked slices had some error in the model and the form-work could not be done

Radical Slices

          Radical slices had some error in the model and the form-work could not be done

Curve

          The grooves generated were at an angle indicated that cut out pieces are difficult for assembling a form-work. Once the final decision is made, the final templates PDF files are saved and ready for laser cut

                                                              

Digital Making- Laser Cut and Form-work Assemble

Preparation for laser cut

          PDF files saved from 123D make were uploaded and opened in Adobe Illustrator and the colours of the outlines were changed to make sure that the outline of the templates need to be cut are red, and the numbering are blue just to get the scratched useful as a guide in assembling the cut out pieces for form-work. Stroke weight needs to be changed to 0.001 mm for successful cut. Used 4 sheets of 3mm plywood 600*300 for laser cut (check the quality of the plywood to make sure it is not bent for successful cut through the sheet).

PDF templates for laser cut

          Saved (.AI) files from Adode Illustrator after setting and opened those files in laser cutter application. Opened the laser cutter printer application and setting the material to natural plywood with cutting depth of 3.5 mm added extra 0.5 mm for successful cut because plywood sheets were bend. Turned on the laser cutter. Placed the plywood on the laser cutting bed and adjusted the focus point of the laser cutter using the focusing tool to make sure all the templates are within the boundaries (repositionthe the sheet if needed). Shut the lid, turn on the extractors and press play button. Approximate cutting time was 6 mins for each sheet, repeated the same process for each sheet. Regardless of the extractors,wise to wear the mask because of the strong fumes produced from laser cutter for Health & Safety.

Cut out plywood sheets

                                        

Total 50 pieces were stacked to test the alignment

          Top 12 layers were decided to removed to test on another possible Polaroid camera shape

Constructing the form-work

          Used UHU glue to assemble the form-work and the alignment holes from laser cutter guided the alignment of the model.

Final form-work and ready for metal shaping

Digital Making- Shaping the Metal Skin

SAFETY FIRST

Common hazards and protective measures:

There are common hazards associated with the equipment while working on metal skin - for each hazard, there are measures need to take to stay safe: 

Hazard:        Flying objects.

Protection:   Always wear approved eye protection (safety glasses, goggles, face shield or a combination of these) whenever machines or any other process are being used in the workshop.

Hazard:        Loud noise.

Protection:   Always wear approved hearing protection (ear muffs or ear plugs) whenever machines or any other noisy processes are being used in the workshop.

Hazard:        Dust.

Protection:   Always wear an approved dust mask whenever dust is being generated.

Hazard:        Entanglement.

Protection:   Always wear sensible, tight-fitting clothing, constrain or tie back long hair, remove jewellery and anything else that can pull you into a machine.

Hazard:        Slips, trips, falls.

Protection:   Always keep your work area clean and free of trip hazards before you start a task - also, periodically clean the area while you are working.

Hazard:        Distractions.

Protection:   Always stay focused on your tasks:  switch-off your phone when in the workshop and never talk to people when operating equipment.

When working with sheet metal we are working with potentially dangerous materials, tools and equipment

To work safely with sheet metals I taken into account that:

o    the materials have sharp edges and corners and, if not handled carefully, can cut me (sometimes badly) I experienced minor cut during the process.

o    the tools have sharp points or edges that can cut, scratch or puncture me if not handled correctly;

o    the equipment can crush / amputate fingers if not used correctly.

Also,I protected myself by:

o    wearing eye protection (especially when working thin springy material that may jump up into my face). This also applies if some of us are a bystander or helper;

o    wearing gloves (especially when I am handling large heavy sheets);

o    not wearing gloves when I am working with machinery that rotates, like the slip rollers, that can grab my glove and pull me in;

o    wear hearing protection when it starts to get noisy( in my case the whole time because a lot of students in the workshop at the same time);

o    being careful when I am near others who are carrying or positioning larger pieces of sheet metal (I might get cut when they turn around);

o    not removing guards that are put there to protect me and others;

o    wearing suitably sturdy clothing and shoes.

The other aspect of workshop safety when working sheet metal is how the material is placed and stored. It is dangerous to leave sharp edges hanging over the edge of the bench or sticking into a walkway, where somebody can walk into it and cut themselves. Or to leave sharp shards lying about on the floor.

          Making things in sheet metal can be somewhat difficult and if I don't get my folds in the right place my piece looks terrible and doesn't work at all. The accurate marking out when working with sheet metal is very important. Mistakes can be costly and waste of valuable time.

Tools I used when marking out the metal sheet:

o    steel rule

o    tape measures

o    scribes / knife

o    marking out blue /  marking pen

          To achieve the accurate marking, I drew the line as thin as possible by using a scribe that leaves a fine scratch (which is often difficult to see). To make the fine line more visible the area to be marked is covered with marking blue or a marking pen which is then scratched through to leave a fine shiny line. Curved lines are marked out by using a prick punch to put a series of dots along the line to make it easier to cut out.

          I mainly used hand tin snip, aviation shears to cut, reshape or modify sheet metal parts and hammers, wooden mallets, shot bag, stakes / dollies as forming tools. I found out that some of the tools require a deal of strength to use and if used for long periods of time could lead to overuse injuries, to avoid this wise to take regular breaks especially when my hands and arms are feeling tied and sore. None of these tools are particularly easy to use and to use well takes a fair amount of practice.

          I used the guillotine designed to cut sheet metals, in my case Aluminium sheet. I slided my aluminium sheet under the guard and line my cut line up with the edge of the bottom blade by looking through the gap between the top blade and the guard. Once the sheet is in the correct position, I press down on to stop moving then push down on the foot pedal to complete the desire cut (make sure no one is around the foot pedal).

  

          

          Once I got the accurate metal sheet for my metal skin, I used Pan Brake to fold the sheet according to my form-work.

                                              

          After that I started carefully cutting out the unnecessary pieces with tin snip(the edges are extremely sharp and I had a minor cut). I placed the cut off pieces one by one into the bin  as soon as I finished cutting to prevent hazard from others.

          I used the clamp attached to the working bench to firmly hold the form work and started hammering constantly with hammers and mallets to shape the metal skin based on my form-work.

Final metal skin for the form-work